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Buyer's guide

Used car out-the-door price: what's included and how to check it

The out-the-door price is the total you pay to drive the car away: the car itself, taxes, government fees, dealer fees and any add-ons. It is the number to compare and negotiate, because a low advertised price can be offset by fees added at the end.

What makes up an out-the-door price

Every quote is built from the same parts. Some are set by the dealer and can be negotiated; others are set by your state.

PartSet byCan you negotiate it?
Vehicle priceSet by: The dealerNegotiable? Yes. This is the main lever, and taxes that follow the price move with it.
Sales or vehicle taxSet by: Your state, and in many states your county or cityNegotiable? No, but it is charged on the price, so a lower price or a trade-in can lower it.
Title feeSet by: Your stateNegotiable? No.
Registration and platesSet by: Your stateNegotiable? No. Some states base it on the car’s weight, value, age or fuel type.
Documentation ("doc") feeSet by: The dealer (some states cap it)Negotiable? Rarely removed, but you can ask for the price to come down by the same amount.
Dealer add-onsSet by: The dealerNegotiable? Yes. Protection packages, etching and similar extras can usually be declined.
Finance-office productsSet by: The dealer’s finance officeNegotiable? Yes. Extended warranties, GAP and similar products are optional.

The parts are the same everywhere. Whether the price on the car in front of you is a fair starting point is the part this table can't tell you.

How the tax on a used car works

Most states charge tax when you buy a car, but they do not all do it the same way, which is why two buyers paying the same price can owe very different amounts.

  • Some states tax vehicles under a separate titling, highway-use or excise tax instead of their general sales tax, often at a different rate.
  • Many add a county or city rate, which usually depends on where you register the car, not where the dealer is.
  • Some cap the tax, or charge the local rate on only part of the price.
  • Most charge tax on the price minus your trade-in. A few charge it on the full price.
  • A few states have no general sales tax but may still charge a vehicle fee when you title or register the car.

Check your own ratewith your state's DMV or department of revenue, using the address where you will register the car. When you get a quote, ask the dealer which rate they used and what amount they charged it on.

Knowing the rules tells you what to ask. Turning them into a total for one car, at the asking price and at a price worth offering, takes the car's numbers.

A worked example

These numbers are made up to show the arithmetic.They are not any state's rates or fees.

Vehicle price$20,000
Sales tax (made-up 6% of $15,000, because this example state credits the trade-in)$900
Title and registration (made-up)$250
Doc fee (made-up)$400
Out-the-door price$21,550
Trade-in credit−$5,000
Amount to pay or finance$16,550

In a state that taxes the full price, the same tax line would be charged on $20,000 instead of $15,000. And if the dealer had added a $695 protection package, the out-the-door price would rise by $695 plus any tax on it, which is why every line deserves a question.

How to get an out-the-door quote

  1. Ask for an itemized out-the-door price in writing, by email or text, before you visit.
  2. Compare dealers on the out-the-door total, not the advertised price or the monthly payment.
  3. Check each line: the tax rate and what it was charged on, the government fees, the doc fee, and any add-on you did not ask for.
  4. Negotiate the price, your trade-in and your financing separately, so a gain in one is not taken back in another.
  5. Before you sign, check that the buyer's order matches the quote you agreed to.

For what each dealer fee is and which to push back on, see the dealer fees guide.

A clean quote tells you what you would pay. It doesn't tell you whether that is a good price for this car.

Get the numbers for the car you're looking at

This guide explains how an out-the-door price works. A Bear Score™ report ($29.99) works it out for one specific car:

  • Its asking price compared with similar cars listed by local dealers, when local listings are available
  • When enough similar local listings exist, an estimate of what the dealer likely paid and a target offer
  • Estimated out-the-door totals for your state, at the asking price and, when there is one, at the target
  • The finance-office add-ons worth declining
  • A Buy, Negotiate or Walk verdict when the data supports one, with the evidence behind it

Bear Score™ and Buy / Negotiate / Walk verdicts are decision support based on available information, not a guarantee of any vehicle’s condition or future reliability.

Common questions

Is the out-the-door price negotiable?

Partly. The vehicle price, dealer add-ons and finance-office products are negotiable. Taxes and government fees are not, but taxes are charged on the price, so they come down when the price does.

Does a trade-in lower the sales tax?

In most states, yes: tax is charged on the price minus the trade-in. A few states tax the full price, and one caps the credit. Your state’s DMV or department of revenue can tell you which applies.

Should I negotiate the monthly payment or the total price?

The total. A monthly payment can be lowered by stretching the loan or adding fees elsewhere, while the out-the-door price shows everything you pay for the car.

Do I have to pay the doc fee?

Dealers usually charge it to every buyer, and some states cap it. If it will not come off, ask for the vehicle price to be lowered by the same amount.

Where do I find my exact tax rate?

Your state’s DMV or department of revenue publishes it. In many states it depends on where you register the car, not where the dealer is, so use your own address.

Checking a car's safety recalls is free: run its VIN, or browse model-year records.